Emulating Auntie

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Mostly Concerning Food

Bumper Christmas Edition (Without any Christmas Food)

I like looking at fancy food and love even more being taken to a decent restaurant or two to enjoy something complicated made with great precision and skill. I’m incredibly impressed when fellow bloggers are able to emulate these recipes and even come up with a few of their own. But I don’t often cook this way myself. This diary is essentially a record of how I try to emulate the good working class cook of the 1920s and 30s. My cooking idols are my late mother and her three formidable sisters. They were brought up on a small holding in North Staffordshire and all learnt their crafts around the scrubbed wooden table in the tiny kitchen. (The house is still there, has been extended to double the size but it still baffles how a family of seven could have lived there on the proceeds of a few acres and a handful of cows).

They went their own ways before the war but to visit an auntie was to be immediately at home. The gardens bloomed with the same cottage flowers in huge swathes of contrasting colours, the decor was basic but the ornaments were all highly polished. A sepia print or two of the lakeland hill farmers my grandmother was descended from and a photograph of a fine house near Kendal where the younger sisters were taken in after the early death of my grandfather. My Auntie Marie used to say that my grandmother’s greatest achievement was keeping her girls out of service.

The kitchen was always the active heart of the house. Always a fresh smell of baking (they all prided themselves on having a slice of freshly baked cake for any unexpected visitor), a large pan of soup was often on the go and, when it came to mealtimes, the portions would do justice to a banquet. You were never stinted with one of this sisterhood. Roasts, stews, cold collation, salads, pickles, jams, jellies and marmalades; it mattered not a jot if you were with Bunt, Marie, Mac or Mum. Rarely fancy (a baked Alaska was talked about for months afterwards), occasionally original, always tasty, always plenteous and always home made. I veer into dishes they’d never heard of in the old homestead but the central core of my cooking is a conscious attempt to keep this tradition alive. I don’t know how long this blog  will survive but while it does it is, in large part, a record and celebration of what poorer people who liked their food were eating in times gone by.dsc_0077More and more of my time is spent at the computer. Working late into the night can be hungry work. A decent midnight feast helps. Cheese and crackers are an almost perfect combination but cheese and Christmas cake is even better. Should be Lancashire but you can’t always get good Lancashire cheese in supermarkets. Hawes Wensleydale is a close second. Here I’ve had to put up with a strong cheddar.dsc_0079Ah, Jaquest. By far the best small food producer in this whole region. I’ve always sworn by kippers from Fortunes of Whitby but these match them for deep smokey flavour. (And they save a long trip to the coast). I’m still arguing with myself as to whether they are best grilled or poached. I don’t think there’s a lot in it taste wise, or texture wise, but I think the bones come out easier if you’ve poached them.dsc_0081My mother taught me how to poach an egg. I’ve never come across anyone who can do it as well as either of us. We never had asparagus as children. It was far too expensive.dsc_0082Supermarket pastrami is very much the weak link here. Happiness is a baked potato, a sprinkle of salt, butter and a big pile of grated cheese. This is from Jaquest. Cave aged cheddar bought in a proper sized piece. Jolly waited patiently under the table and was rewarded with the pastrami.dsc_0083A handful of rocket helps no end; taste, texture and visually.dsc_0084Apple pie fresh out of the oven.dsc_0085Shortly afterwards.dsc_0087Happiness has many forms.dsc_0088Fishcakes with a runny cheese sauce centre tempted me when in Lidl. Not bad. Not worth travelling for though.dsc_0089Good black pudding (Scottish…can’t remember the firm) with lightly pan-fried scallops on toast. My aunties didn’t often cook with scallops.dsc_0091I’ve acquired a hand peeler that cuts carrots into thing spaghetti type ribbons. Blooming wonderful in a stir fry.dsc_0097Black pudding, fried eggs and brown bread and butter. Why don’t more hotels and B&Bs offer stuff like this instead of the inevitable “full English”. Less on the plate and tastier please Mr hotel keeper!dsc_0098My favourite easy meal. Toasted cheese and tomatoes. Brilliant for late night working.dsc_0100A handful of well drained spinach adds enormously to a piece of poached smoked haddock.dsc_0101A simple long grain rice chicken risotto. Doesn’t need the chicken. Spinach, peas and peppers have enough flavour between them.dsc_0103A good sized fillet of line caught wild Salmon on lightly cooked spinach and granary bread and butter. Just looking at that and remembering is going to require a pause and a trip to the kitchen. I don’t often get hungry writing these but I am hungry now. Given the choice, always choose the wild over farmed salmon. For so many reasons.dsc_0104I could, and have, described so many foods as happiness on a plate but the true holder of this title in England is shepherd’s pie.dsc_0106I married someone who put baked beans between the meat layer and the tatties. In this one I’ve stirred some spinach into the beef. It made a huge difference to flavour and made it much moister.dsc_0110Another of my attempts at scones. The current Mrs Johnson does them so much better than me. It’s a case, along with Yorkshire puddings, of some people being blessed by the cooking angels. These aren’t bad but not a patch on T’s.dsc_0112Spaghetti with aubergine in a tomato sauce. I’m a late convert to the aubergine. I blame writers of seventies cook books. We got ten years of bad advice and it put a lot of people off.dsc_0115Pan-fried goose breast with a plate full of the vegetables you’d get round my aunties. You’d probably get a good dollop of gooseberry jam as well.dsc_0116This was Sunday tea at our house. Most of it would have come from the garden in summer (just as it does now…the gardening genes have been passed on as well. Many of my own plants were taken as splits and cuttings from my mother’s garden).dsc_0117A good pork pie is a good pork pie. A bad pork pie isn’t worth eating.dsc_0119Poached eggs, poached smoked haddock. A perfect combination.dsc_0120Cold collation with Jaquest’s award winning cured pork. It is only one of many prize winning (and we’re talking national competition here) products from this wonderful shop. If you’re anywhere close to Bolsover call in. I’m not sure if they do mail order. They’ve got a web-site though. You should be able to find it. Not many shops called Jaquest in the Bolsover area!dsc_0123 dsc_0126Like many I can truthfully quote Oscar Wilde and say that I can resist anything except temptation. In the run up to Christmas chocolate biscuits are cheap, plentiful and very good. In my childhood we’d very rarely see them, and if we did we’d get one, maybe two. I confess to being a complete pig for anything that was rationed (in our family…I’m a little too young to remember wartime rationing) as a child.dsc_0127A pan full of spicy “Wagamama” type chicken noodle soup with peppers, chillis, bok choi, mushrooms and, in this instance, because I didn’t have any noodles, orzo. (pasta grains…looks like big rice)dsc_0130 dsc_0131A working lunch from the depths of the freezer. Sometimes I fancy what used to be called convenience food. Frozen Bird’s Eye fish portions with oven chips. 99% of our food as children was prepared in our kitchen. Sometimes we craved the stuff we saw advertised on the telly. Mum made it all herself because she could, because it tasted better, because she knew what was in it and, having 7 children and limited “housekeeping”, it was a lot cheaper.dsc_0134Take a chicken fillet, lay it on a layer of spinach on puff pastry. Fasten it into a pasty with a layer of fried mushrooms on top. Bake for about 40 minutes and serve with couscous, green beans and a great deal of pleasure. I suppose its a sort of chicken Wellington. Whatever it was, it was blooming lovely.dsc_0135There must have been a lot of those cheese sauce fish cakes. I was glad to see the back of them.dsc_0136We no longer have a fishmonger in the village but we do have a travelling fish van that parks up every Thursday morning. It’s quite a treat to see just how fast the lady can dress a crab. £3.95 and done before your eyes. Fabulous.dsc_0138A simple beef stir fry.dsc_0144If you buy Jaquest’s venison salami you are in for a treat of flavour. I can think of few foods that contain quite as much taste bud stimulation per gram as this. Truffles maybe. There is a skill to learning how to slice it. It’s worth mastering.dsc_0147It’s too flavoursome to have on its own. With some good cream cheese (anything except Philadelphia) on blinis is good. The smoked salmon is also Jaquest and is as good as you can get. The out of focus ‘thing’ at the back of the photograph is a lemon. Honest!dsc_0153De-boned roast shoulder of lamb.dsc_0154With mint sauce.dsc_0155Jaquest own dry cure unsmoked bacon with their smoked Halloumi cheese.dsc_0157Makes a serious bacon sandwich.dsc_0159 dsc_0160Pasta is great. A few vegetables, some cream, some spaghetti. Quality food in 20 minutes.dsc_0161More from Jaquest. These are simple potato fish cakes made with generous amounts of their hot smoked salmon. You’ll have to believe me (and I don’t often lie) just how good these are. I gave some to Steven and he agreed. And Steven never lies.dsc_0162 dsc_0163Cream of celariac soup.dsc_0169That’s the full piece of cave aged cheddar I got from Jaquest. If you ever wish you could find food that tastes as good as you remember it from the fifties and sixties I seriously recommend you pay them a visit. This is wonderful cheese. The cold meat was not bad either. That was from M&S.dsc_0180This was my attempt to try to make a proper Vesta curry using real ingredients. Anyone who remembers Vesta curries will realise that this is a contradiction in terms. The only spice I used was medium curry powder and the sauce is largely a packet of passata. It tasted rather nice. The rice is a variation on a Madhur Jaffrey recipe for Basmati rice and was wonderful.dsc_0181Poached eggs on toast are a full meal in themselves. dsc_0182Chicken Kebabs on spiced Basmati rice.dsc_0184 dsc_0186Carrot cake mix. This is  a Primrose Bakery recipe and worth buying the book for this alone. You will not find a better carrot cake. I’ve made it several times now and it is simply a Wow! cake. (Enough over for 9 carrot cake buns!)dsc_0187I made a checkerboard cake for my birthday with white chocolate ganache between the layers and dark chocolate ganache to cover. A lot of work but worth it for when you slice it and a chess board appears.dsc_0192The completed carrot cake with icing made from cream cheese, butter, icing sugar and orange zest. There’s over a pound of carrots in this baby.dsc_0194 dsc_0195My birthday presents.dsc_0196Lots of orange zest needed for the two cakes means plenty of fresh orange juice.dsc_0198Pasta, vegetables, creme fraiche. Delicious and easy.dsc_0199 dsc_0207Practice Christmas dinner number one. A glutton’s (mine) portion of roast chicken.dsc_0210And yet more poached eggs to finish. This time with the spinach served on top.

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Happy Christmas From

Simon & Jolly

Heaven’s Gate 1981 Part One

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Western Approaches

The Cream Will Rise to the Surface … Eventually!

You can’t separate the story of the film from the film. Thirty five years on more people have opinions than have actually seen it. I’ve had conversations (with friends) from 1981 to 2016 and I’ve rarely heard anyone (other than myself) praise the film. There are reasons why vested interests in the American film industry wanted the film to fail, but why the hostility in England? In 1981? In 2016 for crying out loud?

I went to see it in 1981 and thoroughly enjoyed it only to be told, at work the following day, that it was one of the worst films ever made by three people who hadn’t seen it. They were quite aggressive in their antipathy. Something strange was in the air. These were friends. We usually chatted amicably about rugby league and country music. They were adamant in their stance that I wasn’t going to be able to claim that I had seen a good film at the ABC Huddersfield (Since demolished and now a Sainsbury’s supermarket). I didn’t want to tell them I’d seen a good film. I wanted to tell them that I had seen a great film. They were having none of it. Never let ignorance of a subject stand in the way of a strongly held opinion.Why the strength of feeling?

It’s complicated. This is something of a simplification (I’m trying to keep it down to 1500 words).

Background factors:

  • The sixties had seen several of the big Hollywood studios taken over or merged into huge corporations or conglomerates. United Artists (the company which produced Heaven’s Gate) had been bought up by TransAmerica. By 1980 the relationship between the studio (famous for giving artists a great degree of creative freedom) and the parent company had become fraught. A box office bomb would suit the aims of TransAmerica without harming its commercial interests.
  • The difficulties between TransAmerica and United Artists had just seen the departure of all of the senior executives of the studio. They were so unhappy with the interference of the financial giant that they had left en masse to form Orion films.
  • This meant that United Artists was being run by relatively inexperienced executives who were very keen to establish their own reputations as well as building on the studio’s reputation for bold, independent film making that allowed full rein to the artistic vision of the film maker.
  • Michael Cimino had just collected 5 Oscars (including best film and best director) with The Deerhunter.
  • This made Cimino as many enemies as friends. A big section of the Hollywood establishment felt more than aggrieved that a young blood had stolen the awards from Jane Fonda’s Coming Home. They were looking for an opportunity to knock the new prince off his throne.
  • The 70s had been the era of the Hollywood auteur. The directors called the tune. There were a bunch of superb filmmakers around at the time and the freedom given to them resulted in a golden age of superb films.
  • Superb films are not necessarily what the corporate money men and bean counters want. Even box office success isn’t what they want, though it is a necessary factor. They wanted greater creative and editorial control of films. They were particularly unhappy that many of this golden age of film makers seemed to be politically left of centre.

I’m not saying that Heaven’s Gate was set up to fail but its failure allowed changes to be made that favoured the money men over visionary film makers.heavens-gateYou can largely divide films into those that please artists and those that please the accountants. Heaven’s Gate is the pivot where the see-saw swings. Prior to this movie the big films had been Annie Hall and Manhattan (both regarded as masterpieces but very much also rans at the box office) The Godfather films, The French Connection films and the new wave of Vietnam war based films (all politically charged, left leaning and very expensive to make, and potential bombs at the box office – now all regarded as brilliant films). Oddball films like One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest, Direct political history like All the President’s Men, socially aware films like Taxi Driver. In the second half of the seventies we see the future emerging in two names: George Lucas and Steven Spielberg. These two didn’t only know how to put bums on seats, they also made films that allowed a whole new industry to take off: merchandising. Nobody I knew had an Annie Hall doll (though a few tried too copy her dress sense), there were no Deerhunter games or Lego sets. Jaws, Close Encounters and Star Wars changed the game.vlcsnap-2011-05-25-23h35m52s17Hollywood suddenly had some more directors out of the Walt Disney mould. What they did wouldn’t impress Michelangelo but they made exciting films that attracted the teenage dollar and pound both at the cinema and at the toy shop, the clothes shop, the dance floor, the burger bar.gate-2You can still see good films at the cinema but these days there are far more constraints on the film maker. The occasional masterpiece gets through and sometimes the best films get nominated for the industry prizes. All too often though I am reminded of the saying that a donkey is a racehorse designed by a committee. Film making has suffered since 1980 though strangely television, which is potentially subject to the same interferences, has improved beyond measure in terms of drama. Perhaps film’s loss was television’s gain.  

In 1980 and 1981 the independent minded film maker was, to a large extent, consigned to history and  the decisions over go-aheads, casting, script editing and direction went upstairs. It was a quiet revolution and the victims were those who wanted to make good films and those who wanted to watch them. The criminals (if that is what they were) were the corporate fat cats who can never get quite enough cream. The blame was dumped on Michael Cimino who had discovered that his supposed bosses at United Artists would pretty much foot any bill he sent them and  took advantage of this to make one of the most spectacular westerns ever made. The overspend was hyped in newspapers across America and Britain. There was a concerted media blitz to sensationalise and then ridicule the movie. It cost $35 million. By today’s standards this is small change. Even in 1981 it wan’t a huge amount. TransAmerica wrote it off the following week without so much as a blip on its spreadsheet. In cinematic and financial terms it was all small potatoes. By blowing up the story to sensational heights it allowed TransAmerica to get rid of its unwanted studio and place the blame elsewhere. It also allowed every other studio to crow quietly and take back artistic control.heavens-gate-walkenAll of that makes sense. What doesn’t make sense is how they managed to get away with it. To do so critics had to pan the film, the public had to stay away in large numbers, and those who went had to come away saying it was every bit as bad as they were told it was. The problem lies in just how good the film is. It’s a bit like taking the 1960s Real Madrid side and getting everyone to agree that they were actually rubbish.

It is impossible to watch this film without being impressed with the storytelling, the acting and above all the stunning attention taken to create two and a half hours of visually stunning cinematography. You can make every single frame into a poster worth of a frame of its own. The music is wonderful, the film has something to say to a 1980 audience and even more to say in 2016. Those who don’t like naturalistic sound and actors speaking the way the characters would speak will have some gripes. There are possible quibbles about whether some character relationships are fully drawn. But these are quibbles. What you cannot say on watching it is; this is a bad film. And yet that is exactly what happened.picture-32Conspiracy is perhaps the wrong word but there were as many people wanting this film to fail as to succeed and once Vincent Canby of the New York Times had  pointed his thumb downwards the crowd started roaring for Cimino and his movie to be thrown to the lions.

”Heaven’s Gate,” which opens today at the Cinema One, fails so completely that you might suspect Mr. Cimino sold his soul to the Devil to obtain the success of ”The Deer Hunter,” and the Devil has just come around to collect.”

The victims were many. United Artists was sold to MGM and essentially closed down as a producing studio, studio executives Steven Bach and David Field fell on their swords, Isabelle Huppert returned to France and rarely again worked on American films. Kris Kristofferson fell from top 3 box office draw to bit part player and Michael Cimino was largely finished as a serious film maker.

Some survived. It didn’t damage the careers of Jeff Bridges, Christopher Walken or John Hurt.

Surprisingly the bad reviews stopped when the film reached mainland Europe. The French saw it immediately as a superb film. When it was re-released in souvenir DVD form (with a fabulous documentary telling the story of the film included) the praise was universal. For once in my life I was ahead of the crowd; by about 35 years. I knew in 1981 that I’d seen a very special film. In 2016 I no longer feel lonely.y1i1

Silverado 1985

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Western Approaches 10

I watch westerns and I see no reason why I shouldn’t write about them every now and then. (It’s a gentle love affair)

I didn’t go to see it when it came out, making the mistake of thinking, because John Cleese was in it, that it was going to be a spoof western. I don’t mind a spoof western (Blazing Saddles, Paint Your Wagon) and I don’t mind a spoof western starring a revered English comic (Bob Hope in Son of Paleface) but this one didn’t appeal to me at the time. A pity. I would have enjoyed it very much. Despite my absence it did quite well at the box office but its true success may be shown by anyone who has the time (and the graph paper) to plot the careers of the actors involved. Most went on to have high flying film lives and all of them seem to be given a considerable boost by appearing in Silverado. Few of the cast were household names when shooting began. All of them were shortly afterwards.silverado-1985-37-gThis isn’t a classic western in terms of the esteem in which it is held by film makers, academics or members of the public. It rarely, if ever, appears in lists of all time great westerns and you can’t buy a BFI booklet to help you evaluate your own responses. It is a bit of a classic in two other ways. Laurence Kasdan (writer and director) and his brother Mark (writer and producer) are obviously fans of the western as it was presented to the first generation of television watchers. Elements that we had grown familiar with, cheered at, tried out in our games, are incorporated into Silverado with a skill that borders on genius. On one level it is a catalogue of greatest hits that adds up to something of a homage to a golden age of cowboy trickery. (mounting horses at the gallop or from a balcony, quick on the draw techniques, no-look shootings). On another level all these elements, that are deliberately intruded, do not interfere with the forward momentum of the narrative. Like a well dressed Christmas tree we get all the trimmings without losing the tree.4512_14_screenshotMuch rests on the acting performances and huge plaudits ought to be awarded to the casting director. There is nothing predictable about the casting. The four heroes all came from different acting backgrounds (and went off in very different directions after filming stopped). Of the four, only Kevin Costner has become associated with the genre (and this on the strength of only 4 films in 20 years; this one, Dances With Wolves, Wyatt Earp and Open Range… enough, some people think, to earn him a place along side John Wayne, Clint Eastwood and James Stewart as a true western actor. I’m in the camp that says he’s good but not in that class.

I’d been impressed with Kevin Kline in Sophie’s Choice. This role is a big step away from that but Kline has proved over the years that he is an actor of considerable range and is at home on this range, even if his character appears to wish to be elsewhere. Scott Glenn never achieved the stardust sprinkled celebrity of his fellow horsemen but had already cemented a place in the uplands of Hollywood. His character is closest to the Ward Bond (Major Adams), Robert Horton (Flint McCullough) roles from Wagon Train. Calm, dependable, resourceful, holder of the moral compass and leader of the band.silveradoLike the Three Musketeers, The Impossibles and Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles, each of the group had his special set of skills. Costner was the man for the quick on the draw trickery and fancy horse riding. Kline was the card dealer and ladies’ man who always won. Danny Glover was the fellow you turned to if someone needs shooting at long range. The idea of having a black hero in a western was still novel in 1985. It wasn’t quite so unusual in 1885 in the real West. If however, Silverado marked a step forward for black actors it marked something of treading water (or even regression) for female roles. Poor old Rosanna Arquette seems to be there to make up the numbers. Her storylines have several beginnings but no development and little denouement. A pity. She’s very good and the film would have benefitted from finding a way of utilising her character and acting skills more.silverado-1985-tou-02-gSome of that is true for John Cleese as well. He chooses to give the starring performance rather than the character actor role that may have been better suited. The accent may be (at least partly) American but the voice, the gestures, the expressions, the delivery is 100% Cleese. This plays well. The film encompasses comedy without sacrificing realism. His sheriff’s comic side enforces the sense of lawlessness and corruption that surrounds the world of the film (and indeed a good part of the genre). His eventual retreat from strict law enforcer to returning coward is pure Commedia delle arte  and a comic highlight of the film.52-2But none of these performances are the reason the movie works. The credit for raising this film from good to very good must go to Brian Dennehy. He is simply wonderful. The role borders on two dimensional cartoon but he fills it out to the full filmic four (he very much exists in time in the film). He’s outrageously bad yet he understands the motivation. All of his actions make sense. It is simply a wonderful acting performance. So wonderful that it supports rather than dominates the rest of the cast. This film isn’t finished until he is and anything after he has gone is a tame epilogue.silverado-8You’ll find parallels for almost every aspect of Silverado in hundreds of other westerns and that is the point of it. It is a celebration of the elements we cheered from the sofa or the cinema seats of the weekend matinée. This is a film to watch in your more advanced years to remind you of just why (as a child) you came out of the Roxy shooting down Saturday shoppers or took to jumping on and off your bike while it was still moving. Many of those Saturday morning westerns were low budget affairs that don’t stand up too kindly to being watched over. Silverado does them great credit.

Which begs the question. If it is full of blatant comedy (and it is) and fancy western movie tricks and elements (which it is) how does it stand up as a narrative? The answer is very well indeed. I’d measure it by how much I care and I’d measure this by how much I (as a viewer) am drawn in by the use of dramatic tension. I could get the graph paper out again and draw  lines of where the tension is supposed to be and where I feel the tension and the two lines would be almost identical. It works.

It isn’t a great film in the sense of a Citizen Kane or The Seven Samurai. It’s much too (deliberately) derivative for that. But it is a very enjoyable film and one I wish I’d seen on the big screen. I’m sure I’ll continue to miss good films for the wrong reasons. DVDs are not a patch on the cinema experience but they do allow you to catch up on things you should have seen first time around. Not a must see but very much a worth seeing movie.19f974d6e6004ce85925fbec132bb258

The Best Little Smokehouse in Derbyshire

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Mainly Concerning Food

It has been a quiet month here in North East Derbyshire. Some visits by me to other English towns, some visits to us by family and friends, some reading, some cooking, some gardening, some gainful employment, some leisure time. One thing that has been completely absent has been rush. As I get older the word urgent has become an infrequent visitor to my thoughts. On some days it has been cold enough to light a fire and some days it hasn’t. But the fire is so nice to sit by that I light it anyway. It’s a family tradition. We come from folk who have known hard times but folk who kept the fire well stoked. Whatever season you visited a cousin, auntie, grandma in this family, you’d be offered cake and a seat in the chimney corner. We continue the tradition. Modern fires don’t use a lot of fuel and they give off a lot of heat. I’m looking forward to winter.dsc_0003This is a favourite. Unbeatable as a quick snack, a budget meal and a tasty treat; but also scores high on nutrition, sustainability and gastronomy. It’s the humble but very delicious sardines on toast. Can be made using a toaster but, like toasted cheese, is better using a grill. Toast the bread fully on one side and partially on the other. Butter (real butter please) and spread a couple of tinned sardines straight from the can. I prefer the ones in tomato sauce for this recipe. Sprinkle a few drops of tabasco sauce and return under the grill for a minute or two to finish. It’s one of those meals that don’t tempt until you’ve made it and then it is irresistible. What’s for tea? Sardines on toast. Can’t we have something better than that? Here you go. Any chance of some more?dsc_0005The East Midlands hasn’t yet developed a strong reputation as a food capital. Some supposed lesser counties have become associated with fine food shops and innovative restaurants. Shropshire is now known for good eating as is Cumbria. But we do have the same supermarkets (for better or worse) as the well-heeled areas and we have a few gems of our own. Some brilliant farm shops and a local charcuterie  and smoke house in Bolsover that trades under the name of Jaquest. This is a piece of smoked cod that is absolutely full of flavour. The firm is discretely sited and run by a modest man and wife team who pick up gold, silver and bronze medals for their products from food fairs around the country. This is as good as you’ll get anywhere in England and you’ll enjoy the experience of shopping with them. They are lovely people and to top things off, it’s superb value for money.dsc_0006Their bacon is a treat. Several different cures. I usually choose the standard cure which gives you a flavour and texture from the past. No un-foodlike slimy white oozings from these rashers as they cook. This is the real stuff. It has so little in common with the pre-packed product that comes off the supermarket shelves (even the supposed dry cure) that it seems incredible that we give it the same name. The taste of bacon like this, cured by strictly traditional methods on a small scale by people who care about food, is what gave bacon its reputation. That rubbery, squirmy stuff inserted into a pappy bun, at all too many sandwich shops, isn’t bacon. It’s a horribly processed meat that we have learnt to tolerate. And we shouldn’t. This is like comparing a true stilton to Dairylea. Even the rind cooks perfectly and adds crunch and depth of flavour to the sandwich or the breakfast.dsc_0007Jaquest also do a smoked Holoumi cheese. A single slice added to the nearly made bacon sandwich and then melted under the grill before eating turns a treat into a feast. dsc_0009There are as many different recipes for kedgeree as there are bogus recipes for Paella. It comes from the Raj and is obviously a dish prepared for people who are used to having servants and others to do for them. A real hotch-potch of ingredients. It all ends up in one dish but there is a lot of washing up with a kedgeree. I like Britain but its Imperial past isn’t an aspect that I feel any pride in. My recipe is the one I was brought up on. If any of my family made it to India it was as foot soldiers. Neither side of my family ever sat at the top table (on my mother’s side many were in service…my father’s side consists of miners, steel men and factory workers). My mothers favourite flavouring for fish and rice was parsley. I enjoy spicy kedgerees but given my druthers I’d always select this combination of Basmati rice, hard boiled eggs, poached smoked haddock (Jaquest), lots of black pepper and handfuls of chopped parsley. Serve with brown bread and butter. One of the great legacies of British imperialism is the wonderful multi-culutural society that parts of the country have become. My life has been enormously enhanced by this multi-culturalism.dsc_0010 dsc_0012Never had a fig until I was married with children. Only once had a pomegranate. We were told to use a pin to pick out the seeds. It took far too long and we lost interest. If you cut them in half and gently beat the outside with the back of a large knife the seeds fall out very easily. Suddenly the pomegranate is available in large numbers and low prices in most supermarkets. Visually stunning, as fresh as a morning meadow and apparently very good for you. To use the current stock phrase; what’s not to like?dsc_0014 dsc_0016I love bagels. Here the unusual combination of good cream cheese, capers and thin slices of venison salami (Jaquest gold medal winner, judged best salami in Britain). The salami is far too flavoured to over-indulge. It needs complimentary ideas and this works perfectly. I enjoyed these and then had two more!dsc_0017This black pudding was delicious and I cannot remember who made it. It came from a supermarket and I deliberately kept the card container somewhere safe so I’d know to buy it again. I found a very safe place and hope to find it one day. Black pudding has become the both ends of the spectrum and nothing in the middle food. You’ll find it on the poshest menus and you’ll find it in working class greasy spoon cafés but you won’t often see it in the centre field.dsc_0020Smoked rib of beef. I forget the exact name of the cut. Smoked to order by Jaquest, this isn’t easy to come by. I was lucky. Very lucky, this is a superb product. I simply took the proprietors advice and roasted it very slowly for 10 hours. I love cooking that fills the house with good smells. This was exceptional.dsc_0023 dsc_0024 dsc_0027It produced several meals. At first the richest flavoured roast beef I can remember eating for a long time. Here served English style with new potatoes, carrots and kale. The gravy from the roasting pan was unbelievable. Fabulous on its own but once I added a little English mustard it sang to the four corners of my mouth.dsc_0028 dsc_0031I’m not a great multi-tasker. I do like the golden filigree on the bottom and edges of my fried eggs but I have to confess that I rather over-did these fellows. It made no difference. I call this a Morland breakfast because this is what Nicholas Jenkins and Hugh Morland had on a memorable occasion in A Dance to the Music of Time (one of the truly great sequences of novels written in English). Every time I have this most simple of breakfasts I’m reminded of so many things from my own past as well as that fabulous book.dsc_0032Cold slices of smoked roast beef. Or roast smoked beef. Either way they made the most delicious sandwiches with some horseradish (T) and mustard (me).dsc_0033I have a slight regret that I stopped drinking beer at the same time as the craft beer movement really took off. The regrets are minor. I’m happy with the improvement in the British banger over the same period. I have mixed feelings about middle class people with no experience setting up companies with the words artisan and provender in the titles. But I’m happy to eat a good sausage wherever it comes from.dsc_0034The finest of many fine dishes to come from that £21 piece of beef. The bones were stocked for a number of hours and the stock made into a beef broth. Lots of the cold cuts plus onions, carrots and kale all supplemented with classic soup mix ingredients like yellow split peas, red lentils and pearl barley. This could have been made my my mother, my grandmother or my great grandmother…and that is the sort of food I like the best.dsc_0035Another tasty breakfast and a morning with the newspapers.dsc_0036 dsc_0038As the only member of the family who likes seafood I suffer a feast or famine regime. Long periods of going without and then finding I have to eat enough for four or five. Mussels are sold in bags of about a kilogram in Britain. This moules mariniere meant I didn’t have to eat again that day.dsc_0039 dsc_0041Four oysters. Some pepper, some freshly squeezed lime. Another working class staple that has made its way up the food hierarchies.dsc_0042I began this post with tinned sardines and now add a few fresh sardines. I head and gut them and fry them for a minute of two on each side and serve with bread and butter. Every bit as delicious as the earlier dish and just as east to make. (Both attract the attention of two cats and a sheep dog. I’m afraid there wasn’t enough to go round.dsc_0043Perhaps I spoke too soon. Maybe this was the piéce de resistance of the smoked beef. There are many ways of attaining the depth of flavour that separates the really good chilli from the ordinary. With  this beef it didn’t matter. The depth of flavour was there. Quite simply this was the best chilli I’ve ever tasted. Far too good to serve in any other way.dsc_0046Remarkable how much a sprinkle of lime and a dollop of soured cream adds to the dish. Do you use the word dollop in Australia, New Zealand and America?dsc_0050No month is complete without a simple steak dinner. It’s what I dreamed of as a boy and now measure out my happiness with.dsc_0060A simple cake baked by T for a school baking festival. Wonderful balance between the flavours of the different elements.dsc_0074How I plan to spend the winter. I travel a lot less in the darker months. I mostly work from home these days and once I’ve lit a fire I rarely move more than a few yards. Books, food, dog walks and music. Travel can wait until the days start to lengthen again.dsc_0065Mind you. A family trip to York included breakfast at Bettys with David and Melissa  made a very special treat.dsc_0072And ice-cream in a York ice-cream parlour.dsc_0006I wasn’t part of the big family trip to Harry Potter World. Jolly and I stayed at home and read a travel book by the fire. Before they set off I put in my biggest ever stint at the pancake pans. 2 pounds of flour, a dozen eggs made two large mixing bowls of batter and two pans going non stop for over half an hour. All our children with their partners filled the dining room with good cheer. It felt very quiet when they’d gone.

 

Two Degrees West by Nicholas Crane

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Travelling Companions: A Series looking at British Travel Writing

Episode 8

I read this when it was first released in paperback back in 1999. And I enjoyed it very much. The writer was new to me and quickly impressed me with his drive, his enthusiasm and his wide-ranging knowledge. I liked a challenge and it didn’t much matter to me how contrived that challenge was.

At about the same time I had become a fan of the BBC television series ‘Ready Steady Cook’ where chefs were given a bag of ingredients and 20 minutes to knock it into something tasty. Th first series was impressive, the second even more so. Chefs had twigged that the (£5 limit) shopping bags, provided by members of the public, invariably contained one or more of; a bag of rice, an onion, a pack of minced beef, some chicken breasts.  For a couple of years we admired the end dishes and then realised that it was all a bit pointless. Why £5? Why 20 minutes?

On another channel Tony Robinson played the gormless idiot to a group of archeologists. We got a fascinating insight into how these people uncover the past. But again there was a contrivance that eventually palled with the public. These were serious academics uncovering a site of special interest and yet they were given a mere 3 days to do it. Why? Instead of careful work with a trowel and a small paintbrush, a large mechanical digger would rip open trenches. Robinson would dash across to report the discovery of a wall, or a fragment of pottery, and announce it in tones reminiscent of Kenneth Wolstenholme celebrating a goal in the world cup. The artificial nature of both programmes made them unlikely successes but eventually made watching them a dry and tedious affair. Viewers realised that the drama was contrived and they were being manipulated.unadjustednonraw_thumb_d248Re-reading Two Degrees West was like watching a re-run of either of the programmes. He had set himself the task of walking a line on a map and I couldn’t help asking, Why? To what purpose?

A good travel book relies on three ingredients: the journey, the things we see and meet along the way, and the traveller. The journey has to serve a larger purpose than merely getting from A to B and enduring hardships (real or contrived). Leigh Fermor, Theroux and JB Priestley chose routes that told us an awful lot about the lands they travelled through and revealed important insights into human behaviour.. They were wiser men than Nicholas Crane, more widely read in terms of literature and understanding. A Jarrow terraced house in Priestley’s hands becomes an indictment of economic policy, a Welsh boarding house allows Theroux to expose the quiet rotting despair of the small business woman in Margaret Thatcher’s Britain. Their journeys are planned to encapsulate a greater whole. Crane’s choice is to make a journey no-one else has ever done before. The whole book is ultimately about him, and the 17 hours it takes to read, is a long time to spend in his company.nick-craneFirst things first. It is an impressive walk. If someone from down your street had done it then I think you’d be fully justified in popping a tenner in their charity collection tin.

The device chooses the route and the route isn’t propitious. The first half of the journey is over moorland. It’s inspiring countryside. I know it well.  Unfortunately there is only so much to say about walking over moorland. It has a habit of repeating itself. In the wrong hands fifty miles of heather and bog is one mile fifty times over. All travel writers rely on anecdote and chance meetings. Many of the meetings in this book are pre-arranged and Crane isn’t a natural storyteller. Neither is he a particularly perceptive observer, he lacks a good ear for dialogue and seems uncomfortable around anyone who isn’t from a public school background. On the positive side, he’s enthusiastic, loves numbers, and trains and is happiest when giving a great deal of information about locomotives or triangulation points. In short he is something of a nerd. craneThe problem with a wide readership is that you either have to take your readers into the specialism and make them work, as Stephen Hawking did with A Brief History of Time or you water down your thesis. Crane goes for mass appeal (no doubt encouraged by the people at Penguin). Lacking true substance, it uses the exact same ingredients as Ready Steady Cook and Time Team. Manipulated tension and  bonding to a central contrivance. We are asked accept that walking the 2nd meridian is important and difficult. In reality it is neither. He anticipates great problems and shares them. How can a man with a rucksack get across a large reservoir? How will he cross a motorway?  The danger is fake and the outcome is almost bathos. He has pre-arranged with a boat club member to sail him across the Derwent Reservoir and there is a large farm tunnel under the M62. In terms of a recreational walk it is a tough old wander but in terms of serious geographical and physical challenge it is small potatoes.

He could do what many writers before him have done and make light of the journey and concentrate on the views of England that he passes through. He doesn’t. He continues to emphasise the rigours he has to endure which involve him sleeping outside without a tent (millions of British people are hikers and many of them have bivouacked regularly in comparable conditions), getting wet, getting a bit tired and being turned away from bed and breakfasts on the grounds that they are full.dsc_0049When he can’t find anything to write about we get little guide-book histories that  romanticise the past. Smugglers are loveable rogues who rob from the rich, grouse moors preserve species and ancient ways of life and people learn to know their place. He makes occasional reference to other writers all from the distant past (Byng, Leland, Cobbett, Fiennes). We get snippets of what they had to say but little is revealed. It feels like someone with a reading list claiming to be well-read.dsc_0092We don’t learn very much about the history and geography of England  and it certainly doesn’t capture a snapshot of the summer of 1997. The death of Diana gets a few mentions, he visits Longbridge and sees a production line at the, soon to be bought, robbed and shut down, Rover car plant. He gets a lot of help from his over-bearing father, various friends, including the runner Christopher Brasher (who gets introduced and largely ignored in the text), and especially the military.dornoch-firth-2Crane went on to find a certain celebrity as one of the presenters of “Coast”, a series which made a slow journey around the British Isles revealing what was there. It was more thinned down specialist stuff for the wider market with each episode divided between several presenters. Enjoyable, attractive television that we watch and then forget. It owed as much to television planners as it did to academics. It has gone the way of Ready Steady Cook and Time Team. Remembered fondly until you come to watch it again. dsc_0034Two Degrees West is not a bad book if you like a little well-mannered escapism. If you want well told anecdotes and incisive historical document it probably isn’t for you. If, however, your need is for detailed information on the dates, costs, materials, and method of building  the network of the little concrete towers called triangulation points, then this is the book you’ve been waiting for.

Season of Missed Melons and Fruitfulness

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Mainly Concerning Food

It’s easy to forget how much I enjoy doing these, and seeing them. It never fails to delight me. They don’t get a lot of thought during the month; the philosophy is simple. Try to find at least one point in the day to sit down together and enjoy nicely prepared food and conversation. So it’s make a meal, take a photograph, eat the meal and forget it. I work mostly from home these days so the cooking falls to me. Our lifestyle determines the food to some extent. Something that can be easily prepared and left to stand, sit or roast for half an hour while we walk the dog and talk about the day.

We lack sophistication. We were both brought up to expect the evening meal to be on the table at six. We stick with it out of habit I suppose, but also because it suits. I’ve never much cared for evening dining and the Spanish idea of eating towards midnight would be plain crazy in this house. How can you enjoy a meal when you’ve been asleep for the last two hours?

So I enter the kitchen sometime between 4 and 4.30 to rattle the pans. Once it’s ready I take a photo, then forget about it until the blog appears. I’m always surprised at just how many enjoyable meals we have had. I expect a simple menu and get a banquet. Life is far too important to manage without good food.

The cooking varies. I’m a better than average cook, if I may pay myself a compliment, and am capable of restaurant quality food on a good day. I’m also a fellow from a working class background who, though delighted to have had his tastebuds awakened by the many delights of the modern food world, can take enormous pleasure in the simple fare of my childhood. My cooking ideal is the sort of wholesome, tasty meals that were put on the table in the smallholding farmhouse kitchens that I am descended from. I love stews and roasts, have been brought up to liver and kidneys with steak as a very special occasion treat. I’m also more than happy with a tin of beans or a fish finger sandwich.dsc_0058There was a birthday last month. We gathered to celebrate T’s anniversary and a family gathering will often involve a trifle. It goes back to when the children were very small. Trifle was a special occasion treat for a while in the seventies. It’s gone out of fashion. People tried to fancy it up – often with the addition of alcohol – usually sherry – but this doesn’t help. Sponge, fruit, good custard and whipped cream are all delightful ingredients in themselves. They don’t need jazzing up. I’m not a fan of adding alcohol to food. There is a real skill in knowing which alcohol, how much and what blend. Most of us don’t have this skill. I don’t drink alcohol these days- no longer like the taste – not sure that I ever did. I never much cared for sherry which is the drink that has ruined many an inoffensive trifle. By all means have a glass of sherry with your trifle. It’s like the English ‘artisan’ (translates as a middle class person who has decided they can set themselves up as a food producer) cheesemakers putting apricots and cranberries into the cheese. No!!! A hundred times no! Serve the cheese with anything you like but don’t incorporate it into the cheese. And don’t put alcohol into trifles. If you don’t like trifles without alcohol have a different pudding. (My blog; my prejudices!)dsc_0057This was intended to be a fancy checkerboard cake but I couldn’t find the icing bags needed to create the pattern so I thought I’d attempt my own record for the highest Victoria sponge. The photograph doesn’t have anything to allow you to gauge the scale but take it from me, that is a big plate it is standing on. It was T’s birthday and a fun cake seemed to be in order. I’ve also just had a new cooker installed and sponge cakes are an excellent way of getting a feel of cooking times (every cooker is different). The jam is my own home made plum jam. The cream is shop bought double cream whipped.dsc_0056Having been carried away by the delights of sour dough I have been a little negligent with yeast based bread. The day I made this loaf was hot and humid. The dough had been double proved and the loaves into the oven within 3 hours. The same process can take twice as long in the winter. In my new found love of sourdough I’d forgotten how nice this bread can taste. And it is perfect for sandwiches. Many restaurants and tearooms, including some very good ones, use sliced bread for sandwiches because it is impossible to cut fresh bread thin enough. (Paul Hollywood) Some leave the proper loaves until they are a day old. With well  baked home made bread you can cut the bread as thin or thick as you like as soon as it has cooled to room temperature.dsc_0055Uncle Bernard (sadly no longer with us) loved what he called comfort food. We all have our own definitions of comfort food. Fish pie is the epitome of it to me. It fills the kitchen with warm, safe, nostalgic smell, it evokes kind memories, is the sort of food you can eat on a tray in front of the telly in your dressing gown, and it’s so dashed tasty. This is as simple as fish pie gets. Cod fillets, parsley sauce and good mashed potato. I love frozen peas with many things but they fit the comfort food label perfectly. I felt a whole lot better after a portion (or two) and I wasn’t even ill before I began.dsc_0047We’ve had another wonderful late summer. The sun was a long time coming this year but it is in no rush to leave. We’ve had a lot of meals in the garden this September. I really enjoyed this bowl of chilli con carne made with three different sorts of beans and good cubes of beef cut from a piece of topside and stewed slowly. A few tortillas and a dollop or two of Turkish yoghurt; and lots of late season sun. Blooming marvellous!dsc_0029A plate of happiness. This was my platter for the rugby league challenge cup final. In previous years I’ve enjoyed hotdogs or burgers or a packet of crisps (chips) or a plate of chocolate biscuits to enjoy this essential part of Simon’s sporting calendar. Fruit, bread, cheese, cold meats and a cracking match between Warrington and Hull with the Humberside team sealing it with a breath-taking match-saving tackle in the last minute. Perfection!dsc_0027Figs were things we never saw as children. The occasional mention in Bible stories at school and a place in an oft-used figure of speech “don’t give a fig” meaning “don’t care” “not bothered”. I was a parent before I cut open my first fig and saw this delightful sight. As good to look at as to eat and a real treat to do either. Here served with a Yorkshire curd tart. The sweet tartness of the fig off setting the creamy stodge (not often used as a compliment but very much so in this case) of the tart.dsc_0026The bread is mine but everything else is from the deli counter. Do they do Scotch eggs in other parts of the world? Some people have passed unkind comments on the Scottish diet and perhaps this way of serving the humble egg says a great deal about Hibernian attitudes to food. Take a perfectly innocent egg and give it a thick jacket of sausage meat, roll this in breadcrumbs and deep fry it! If you make these yourself with good quality sausage meat they are wonderful. Occasionally you can buy a good one. More often than not they are a victory of hope over expectation.

I’m delighted to see that I’d bought some tongue for the cold meat plate. Tongue, along with seafood and offal is my preserve. No-one else in the family will eat it. Every generation seems to find something that their parents ate disgusting. I make no apologies for enjoying tongue, liver, kidneys and heart. Ethics says that if you are going to justify killing the beast for food then you should eat all of it. I do my best and think that cured tongue with English mustard on white bread is about as good a sandwich as you can get.dsc_0019Can’t remember whether this was breakfast of tea. The cups of coffee suggest it was the first meal of the day. Nice to see two coffee pots, a fresh pineapple and a jar of home made chutney in the background. I’m less impressed with the packet of pre-sliced cheese.dsc_0018Comfort food part two. Spaghetti Bolognese as taught to us by our (English) mums. This was the first dish we (as a nation) learned when pasta first became readily available (in blue sugar paper packages in the early 60s) We’ve adapted it slightly and serve it with good Parmesan cheese these days, but it is otherwise unchanged from the way mother served it to a hungry family of nine.dsc_0011I’ve featured quite a few cooked breakfasts in these blogs over the years. You are actually far more likely to find this on the Johnson breakfast table. I love fruit however it comes, and can think of no better accompaniment than yoghurt.dsc_0010The simplest and perhaps the tastiest of the pasta dishes. Spaghetti Carbonara. Ten minutes well spent of anybody’s time. Beaten eggs added at the last minute and cooked in the residual heat of the pasta and sauce as it is stirred to thicken.dsc_0007These innocent looking little treats should come with a health warning. Any actor needing to bulk up for a part would manage it in a month on croissants. They look light and fluffy, are oh so easy to eat, and the weight just piles on. A treat is a treat though. They are far too good to cut out all together. Impossible to manage on just one!dsc_0006Home made vanilla ice cream with fresh strawberries.dsc_0004A writer’s lunch. A whole Camembert, a small French loaf and a few grapes.dsc_0004In between jobs that have to be done I’m trying to find a couple of hours a day to practice the array of musical instruments I have surrounded myself with. In the foreground a fish finger sandwich. In the background, Worcestershire sauce, ukulele tutor, selection of picks and a harmonica.dsc_0009Home made scones with my own gooseberry and apricot jams. These scones are my effort. I usually leave it to the current Mrs J and she does a much better job.dsc_0013Not a vintage year for produce but we had plenty of broad beans, gooseberries, black and white currants, potatoes, tomatoes and peppers.dsc_0014Home grown tomatoes  (and chilli) on toast with bacon.dsc_0016My snack tray for the Australian Rugby League Grand final. Cronulla just beating Melbourne while I eat crisps, mini salamis and apples.dsc_0017No month is complete without steak. Yellow fat is almost always a sign of quality beef. This tasted superb.dsc_0019Good mushrooms on good toast. What more do you want?dsc_0020dsc_0022dsc_0023The greatest snack food of them all. Toasted cheese!dsc_0003When we were young and courting I made steak with corn cobs and baked potato for T on her birthday. The tradition was in need of revival. 35 years on it is still just about my favourite meal.dsc_0026Home made chicken soup.dsc_0027dsc_0032Rack of lamb.dsc_0035dsc_0036Ernest Hemingway’s favourite breakfast. Eggs sunny side up with fried potatoes.dsc_0037

Toasted cheese with home grown tomatoes and capers.

L is for Liverpool

Liverpool Revisited: September 2016

Those parts of the journey I rarely make but often hear. Announced over the station platform or on the train. The litany of stations. I’d get off the Leeds train at York and miss Darlington, Durham and Newcastle. Or in other times you can add Alnmouth, Dunbar and Edinburgh. Getting off at Exeter St Davids always denied me Dawlish, Teignmouth, Newton Abbott and Plymouth and a whole host of near mythical names in that Cornish country away to the west of the world. The ones I missed the most were Warrington Central, Widnes, Liverpool South Parkway and Liverpool Lime Street. I invariably got off in Manchester and missed out this part of the journey. Widnes was a rugby league team that punched above its weight and the station is supposed to be where Paul Simon was sitting with suitcase and guitar in hand and his ticket for his destination.

It looks grey in late September with a Lancashire drizzle masking the views and what you can see doesn’t look all that appealing.

It’s grey and wet in Liverpool too but it doesn’t matter all that much. I’m staying at the Adelphi. It’s a stride or two away. Not time enough to get even damp in this finest of rains. More a moving mist than drops.imgp5211Lime Street station is a big glass curve over a dozen stone arches with an old inter-city sign giving the impression that the railways, round here, still belong to the people. Behind the station towers the gothic pile of part of John Moores University and across the road is St Georges Hall. You’re in Liverpool la! These are proper buildings. There isn’t anywhere in England, outside London, with such an array of world class buildings. If you’ve been reading the publicity from the anti-Liverpool brigade (and there is one) you wouldn’t be expecting this, or maybe you’d think it was one glorious square with miles of squalor all around. No this is Liverpool. One of the great cities, not just of Britain, but of the world.imgp5209It doesn’t feel like Manchester or Leeds or Birmingham. If anywhere, and you ignore the lack of towering skyscrapers, it feels more like New York than another British city. There’s a working class grandeur to the place. This is a city built from the streets upwards. It’s a city of much greatness, many celebrities in the true sense of the word and huge success but the real heroes of Liverpool are the people you pass in the streets. This is a town where to be ordinary is to be extraordinary and often celebrated as such.imgp5221It has suffered. It has suffered terribly. Every powerhouse town and city that generated the wealth of the nation, put it in a place of greatness on the world map, has been sucked dry and left to fend for itself. If you were looking for a rational explanation for the irrational vote the British people made to leave the European Community, it is one rooted in the dissatisfaction of the working class communities that unloaded the ships, made the steel, dug the coal, wove the cloth and turned the lathes of the factories, mills, mines and docks. One by one their industries were closed down and nothing was put in their place. Nothing of note. A sweatshop distribution warehouse in the heart of a mining community where conditions are comparable (by a House of Commons committee) with a Victorian workhouse, a call centre in the heart of Merseyside where the lack of stimulation in your work is matched by the lack of pound notes in your wage packet. The working people saw London and the South East, and the educated bastards getting richer from Europe but they saw very little of it themselves. The vote may have been a case of ‘if we’re not getting it then neither are you’ spite; but it is understandable under these terms.

Alan Igbon, Michael Angelis and Tom Georgeson in Alan Bleasedale's Boys From the Black Stuff

Alan Igbon, Michael Angelis and Tom Georgeson in Alan Bleasedale’s Boys From the Black Stuff

Liverpool was simply impoverished and stigmatised by affluent Britain. Once the second city of Empire with docks that stretched for miles and a workforce of many tens of thousands, the docks were simply closed down and the population left without work. The situation was captured with a tragic beauty by Alan Bleasedale in his remarkable series of television plays “Boys From the Blackstuff” and by Willy Russell in Blood Brothers. We see the human side of the removal of hope from a proud people. The pieces, and many other plays, novels and poems, still resonate. But happily the dark days are passed. The Liverpool I step out into has a skip in its step, has rediscovered its mojo, has once again got on the Mersey beat.imgp5273The Adelphi seems as old and grand as Liverpool. Inside its a Britannia hotel. This means that has seen better days. Britannia seem to be buying large hotels that had once sparkled but have become the end destination of cheap coach holidays. Hotels where the temptation is to stack your plate high at the self-serve buffets before realising that you’ve got to eat it. The chain then does its best to raise the standard while being shackled by its own budget prices. There is a shabby grandeur to the place that I like. I also like the courteous staff who let me drop off my bag, point me towards the spa and gymnasium (spa for me) and generally make my stay as nice as they can.

I’m here for the Labour Party conference but I’m in no rush. In fact I’m of a truant disposition. Alan Bleasedale had talked of the swimming pool beneath the Adelphi when he was on Desert Island Discs and I was keen to try it out. It satisfied two of my criteria for a good swimming pool. It was rectangular and it had very few swimmers in it. My allotted lengths completed I sit it a hot bubbling tub, shower, swim again, sweat out my pores in a steam room while listening to two true scousers bemoan the fact that the current Everton striker closes his eyes to head the ball. “My school master wouldn’t have picked him for the school team if he did that. It’s a bag of wind with some stitches. It ain’t gonna hurt you!” In the changing rooms I hear him using the same lines to make the same point to another football fan.imgp5286It’s standing room only down at the conference centre as shadow chancellor John McDonnell holds forth on the economy and how he’d borrow to invest in a huge programme of council house building. The press have spent a year rubbishing every aspect of the current Labour leadership but I’ve yet to find anyone who disagrees strongly with any of their policies. There is a huge lack of affordable housing in the country. The rental sector has been hijacked by corporate capital and has become very expensive. House prices are now way out of the range of anybody on a standard income and a previous government sold off the bulk of the council houses at below market rates. The plan to build half a million new houses for long term rent from local authorities smacks of common sense to many but of socialism gone mad to the press. By socialism gone mad they mean it harks back to the policies of the Attlee government from after the second world war. They built hundreds of thousands of council houses and gave millions of people their first decent place to live at a fair rent. Houses with bathrooms and gardens for the families of those who had fought the war. The Attlee government also nationalised the railways and coal mines and gave workers in those industries their first security of employment as well as the people of Britain ownership of these vital national assets. And of course they gave us the National Health Service where every citizen could receive first class medical treatment regardless of their ability to pay. I like John McDonnell. He isn’t the usual professional PR trained politician who sounds good and sways with the wind of public opinion. He has a few principles and he isn’t afraid to show them.imgp5303He’s received surprisingly well and the journalists outside the hall struggle to pooh pooh what he has said. I wander off through the conference complex until I find the large room where education is on the agenda. My memory of fringe meetings is of smoke (my last time at conference was in the late seventies when everybody smoked) and bustle and voices raised in indignant and righteous grievance. It wasn’t like that here. A union official was chairing a debate on aid to overseas education budget. Guest speakers held forth to a sleepy bunch widely dispersed around the tables of a big room. Among the speakers was Stephen Twigg. I hadn’t seen him since election night in 1997 when, as part of Tony Blair’s landslide victory, he defeated the then loathed Tory heir apparent, Michael Portillo in what became known as the Portillo moment. People asked each other if they stayed up for Portillo, meaning, were they still watching TV as his result was announced at about 2.30 a.m.. This particular poll didn’t only see the end of Portillo’s political career but also announced the end of 18 years of Conservative rule. Twigg had been a fresh faced, smiling victor that night while the seasoned politician behind him looked greasy and woebegone. Time has played them differently. Portillo has re-invented himself as the face of travel programmes on British television,  while Twigg looked far older than the 19 years that time had allotted. The fresh faced hopefulness of 1997 had disappeared. His appearance wasn’t a good advert for a career in Westminster and he didn’t have very much to say about overseas education.

I finished my third apple of the day, decided to skip the afternoon events among the party faithful and went off in search of Liverpool.

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The Visiting Hour: Nottingham Actors Studio

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A New Occasional Series of Plays, Music and Exhibitions from the Region

The visiting Hour by Elle Pemberton

Nottingham Actors Studio: The Basement

Time shapes plays. The way time moves. In many plays the movement is from A to B in a straight line. Circular plays are also popular. They begin with the concluding passage, then take us back and explain how we got there. My favourite dramas take the concept that time isn’t just curved (Einstein), but is actually a spiral. J B Priestley takes his fascination with this into several of his best plays, including An Inspector Calls. Time here isn’t linear, nor is it necessarily sequential.  A spiral explains how patterns recur while evolving. (It also provides a possible explanation for re-experiencing moments; what we refer to as deja vu).  Common sense and convention tells us that we exist in the present with an unchangeable past behind us and an unwritten future ahead. Playwrights and quantum scientists exist in a world where the boundaries between these elements are porous.

We are surrounded by spirals. The galaxies of the universe are spirals, hurricanes (think of the remarkable photographs of huge storms taken from space) are spirals, our DNA is spiral, shells, fossils; we are everywhere surrounded by this fascinating shape. Our very thoughts can spiral. As a noun it symbolises complexity. As a verb it suggests a lack of control. If something is spiralling then we feel danger. Noel Coward’s best play The Vortex picks up this theme. Life is a river, or an ocean. We must avoid the whirlpools (nature’s favourite spiralling symbol of danger).visiting-hourThe Visiting Hour by Elle Pemberton is a spiral. It uses time cleverly. The play takes place over many visiting hours in a hospital yet the title reduces them to one. The definite article and the singularity are significant. We progress forward only to find ourselves back where we began, but each time something is different. We seem to be travelling through something like a spiral shell with no promise that the thread will emerge. Daedalus in Greek mythology is able to thread a spiral seashell (He does it by tying the thread to a tiny ant and letting the ant crawl through the spiral; that should keep the kids occupied on a wet afternoon at Cromer!) There is hope that there will be light but also a fear that the further we journey the more likely we are to meet a dead end. It’s claustrophobic, imprisoning even. But not without humour. The play made the audience laugh regularly, but never comfortably.

Time for a quick précis. Hannah has been hospitalised by an eating disorder that has made her behaviour unpredictable and uncontrollable. She hates being confined but knows that any alternative (being sectioned) would be worse. Her behaviour continues to be erratic, difficult. We don’t know how much this is the illness, the treatment or even wilful awkwardness. And we’re not meant to know. The authenticity of Hannah’s state of mind is clear in the writing and the acting. Often in linear narratives the audience is in a dominant position of knowing more than any character on the stage. Here the audience don’t know and this makes for an uncomfortable, but satisfying journey. The journey lasts an hour; is this the hour referred to in the title? Are we the visitors?

The play opens with the arrival of Hannah’s cousin Olivia for a visit. Her arrival is unexpected. Hannah is expecting her mother but we soon discover that the strain  of looking after Hannah has reduced her mother to a state of nervous collapse. Olivia is a reluctant replacement. She cares enough to visit but she doesn’t want to commit herself. She is fearful of getting involved with Hannah and what this will entail. She knows her cousin well and is familiar with her antics and she is right to be apprehensive. She feels in her mind that she ought to do her duty but then get out as quickly as she can. Her main difficulty is that she cares. She stays, she commits. She gets drawn into the spiral.

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The performances are strong. Elle Pemberton takes the role of Hannah as someone who is determined to both dominate and to shut out unwanted intrusions into her life. The cleverness in the acting being that what we see on the surface is rarely what we believe is going on inside her. It is a difficult and complex act and is carried off with great accomplishment.There is no raving; she plays the irrationality of her character with considerable rationality. She has a keen awareness of what is happening, what the various treatments involve and has developed a world weary cynicism to counselling, talking cures, therapists and self-help. At one stage she opens up and reveals that she shuts out half of the attentions because she doesn’t trust those making them and shuts out the other half because she doesn’t feel as though she deserves them. It is a truly touching moment.

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Hannah Hall brings great resourcefulness to Olivia. She is often at the point of exasperation, at one stage actually walking out in frustration and anger. She is drawn into helping, encouraged that it seems to be doing some good; but every time the wheel turns back and she is left with rags for broadcloth. She fears that she is being played with. That Hannah is simply manipulating her. She runs through every strategy she can think of. Where she succeeds is through caring. She is a cousin but has a sister’s love. If there is an answer here, and the play is ultimately optimistic, it is that the cure will be found through love and honesty.

Both actors are skilful in the use of pauses. There is a great deal of meaning , and a mass of tension, in the silences.

This is a fast moving powerful hour. You’ll feel half-beaten up by the end of it. At all times there is a feeling of walking on egg shells. We journey through the darkness and each time we feel the light, the spiral continues and we’re back in the dark again. But the spiral isn’t a circle. We never end up in the same place twice. Patterns recur and develop.

Thought provoking writing, careful direction and skilful performances make this a play to watch out for. It’s only in preview at the moment. I know the Nottingham Actors Studio. This will appear again and it will be even better. That is just the way they do things there. The play is already very good. They don’t settle for very good in this part of Nottingham.

The previews run until Saturday but word has got out: it’s already a sell-out. If you’re lucky enough to live in range of Nottingham you’ll have to wait to see if it gets a full commission. My money is on the play.

 

The studio puts on some of the best new writing in the Midlands and the North, runs a brilliant little theatre space and provides free training for many many young people from in and around the Nottingham area. Training that leads on to professional work on the television, film screen and the stage. These people are worth supporting. You may wish to help them reach their summer fund-raising target. All donations are gratefully received and will be very well spent.

Please click the link below to donate.

https://www.justgiving.com/crowdfunding/nottinghamactorsstudio

 

The Long Riders : 1980

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Westerns  :  Part Something or Other

The selling point of The Long Riders is that it casts brothers as brothers. The enormous importance (and dangerous insularity) of family, in the narrative, is brought out by having siblings played by siblings. And for the most part it works. Hollywood is often, and correctly, charged with nepotism but the fact remains that children of great actors often take advantage of their privileged positions to become pretty fair actors themselves. If learning a trade is about gaining experience, watching the best and practicing for the 10,000 hours required then Hollywood offspring have a flying start.theridersThere are a lot of acting brothers and sisters. In the modern era we have Jake and Maggie Gyllenhaal, Ben and Casey Affleck, Ralph and Joseph Fiennes and no end of Baldwins. In this film we have a family enclosure of Keaches, Carradines, Quaids and Guests playing (respectively) Jesse and Frank James, Cole, Jim and Bob Younger, Clell and Ed Miller and Charlie and Robert Ford. The strength is in the middle. All three Carradines and both Quaids are up for this, the others fall short by some distance. In the matter of the Guests it’s a quaint set of performances and a quirky thought to think that Jesse James was killed by Nigel Tufnell and his brother. In the case of the Keach brothers, too much is resting on them.  James, in particular, isn’t able to carry the weight of the main role. He’s good in parts but doesn’t sustain it. Much the same charge can be made against the film script. There are some excellent lines and at times the narrative gets to grips with its biggest dilemma; how to make a bunch of murderous bandits sympathetic to the cinema audience.* It should be commended for asking the question. The answer falls a little short. Look at the bottom of the film script and there are two unnecessary names; James and Stacey Keach. They also act as producers. Presumably they played a big role in casting. The whole thing smacks of pet project and these don’t have a good history.the_long_riders_1980Having said that it isn’t a bad film. There is a lot to commend it and, if you’ve got a couple of hours to spare and a copy of the dvd handy then it passes the time quite well. Happily the Keach contingent allowed Walter Hill to direct and Hill is at his best in the western genre. He knows it, pays tribute to it and borrows very heavily.

The opening shots are from the canon. A steep, grassy ridge at twilight, in this case richly coloured in greens and slate blues. And on come the silhouetted horsemen. It could be Winchester 73: it could be a whole host of movies. The cinematography is deep and gorgeous. It sets the tone. The progress of the film is between alternating interiors an exterior scenes. In the exteriors the buttons are pressed onto full (up to 11 as Christopher Guest might say) for colour and texture. Interiors are drained of colour. Faces in particular are shown in sepia. There is a hint of the now common technique (most famously introduced in Schindler’s List) of draining all the colour from a scene except on a specific item. In the case of Schindler it was a child’s red coat. I don’t know if Walter Hill and cinematographer Ric Waite were pioneering this technique. It’s certainly the earliest instance I’m aware of.4419_4Interiors and exteriors have a greater symbolism. The rich alluvial land, with fine woodland, open trails, good farms represents the heritage and freedom of the south. It is almost a second Eden. An idea undermined by the farms’ inability to yield. Farming cannot sustain the way they want to live so the the Jameses, Youngers, Millers and Fords turn to armed robbery. And it’s all done for family.

And then there is the intrusion of the biggest character in the whole western genre: The American Civil War. These boys are “Good Old Rebels” and are not content to allow any documents signed at Appomattox Court House to change their allegiance. They aren’t latter day Robin Hoods, robbing the rich to feed the poor. (Though there is an effort made to portray them that way – not least inside the film with the interesting character of the New York newspaperman collecting the story as it unfolds and re-telling it as instant legend in the East). These are a criminal gang with a highly developed set of prejudices against Yankees, Squareheads and any immigrant who hadn’t farmed Missouri for three generations.01-1The difficulty, alluded to earlier, is how to hold the sympathy of the audience. In Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid (there are strong echoes of George Roy Hill’s masterpiece here) it is done through the wit and charm of the main characters and the bond they have with the beautiful Katharine Ross. In Pat Garrett and Billy the Kid it is also done with charm and the force of personality of the main character who at all times takes the side of the oppressed against the oppressor. It also has friend against friend with the audience staying with the friend who didn’t sell out to big business. In the case of The Long Riders few of the gang have any great depth of likability. The Keach brothers are full of self-preservation. (There is an interesting journey from brotherly comrade to troubled leader who won’t accept criticism, or even questioning, as his judgement starts to fail. It works in principle but in practice is brought out by having James Keach stare dead faced into the mid distance while sweating in half shadows.) 4419_1David Carradine is engaging but his characterisation of Coleman Younger is brutal. There are some signs of a deeper emotional well beneath the surface, but that surface is tough and of a man who cannot live without the thrill of danger. Keith Carradine brings some pastoral lyricism into play. I like Keith Carradine immensely as an actor. He can make a great deal out of a small role as he had shown in an earlier (and much better) western, MacCabe and Mrs Miller. Amidst the increasing violence his role is lost. His character’s lasting legacy to the film is a loyalty, first to the gang, and then to his brothers. My favourite character, and the best performance in the film, is Clell Miller played by moon faced Randy Quaid. There is humour in his brutality, purpose in his loyalty, a backstory in his actions and demeanour. Eight performances of this quality would have equalled a very good film. In short we never take the James/Younger gang to our hearts. I don’t think we’re meant to but herein lies the difficulty. We certainly aren’t rooting for anyone else.

Women do feature. They should feature more strongly. There is no role to compare with Claire Trevor in Stagecoach or Katharine Ross in Butch and Sundance. In the Long Riders the whore with a heart of gold has no place to live and nowhere to go: so she just disappears.longriders4I like the film for personal reasons. I was taken to see it by the people I was living with at the time of its release. They were big Ry Cooder fans and wanted me to hear the soundtrack. I wasn’t disappointed. They were fine company and the music is first rate. Cooder relies on the great songs and tunes of the Civil War era and embellishes them with gusto. This is get up and stomp music in the social scenes, folk pastoral in the countryside and always played immaculately. In the band is a very young David Mansfield. It is perfect grounding for the work he was going to do in Heaven’s Gate some years later, which in turn spawned Crazy Heart. The film’s musical legacy is strong.

I’ve watched it four times. Once in a Staffordshire cinema in 1980, with pop corn and friends, once quietly at home with an ageing and infirm father who loved westerns and used them to hold his jagged memories together, and twice recently to prepare this. In these recent ones I’ve been joined by two dogs and a sleek black cat who stalk and chase each other around the room as I watch and make notes. The film has lost a little bit of its glory with each viewing. The film will fade but the memories of watching it will remain with me as long as my own memory continues to function adequately.

As a footnote. As well as the three Carradine brothers, famous father John Carradine was also cast in the film. He had played in one of the truly great westerns, Stagecoach, where he took the role of a Southern gunslinger who had nowhere left to go after the end of the civil war. He ends up not surviving the symbolic journey to a new America. In this film he didn’t even survive the editorial scissors. His scenes never made the final cut.

 

  • It is the film which portrays them as such. Historians differ in their thoughts.

Breakfast Three Times a Day!

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Mostly Concerning Food

This is the first food blog since April. For new readers (and old) a quick outline of my approach to food blogging.

These are point and shoot photographs of meals enjoyed by the family Johnson. Nothing is prepared specially for the blog. Presentation is as it comes. The food is served and a couple of shots are taken just before eating. I choose the better of the two. I sometimes remember to dandy up the plate, wipe away a drip or a drop but it’s pretty slapdash. This is deliberate. There are plenty of first class food blogs around. I follow and enjoy a number of these. This one is neither foodie, nor meant to impress with complexity or cleverness. This is what we eat. We’re two fifty somethings both fully occupied with the world of work and a lot of interests besides food. We like to eat well but can’t afford too much time. The average meal takes less than half an hour and doesn’t cost a great deal. It’s a celebration of eating without being fancy or extravagant. I don’t do recipes. If it’s pasta and mussels in a cream sauce then the recipe doesn’t take a lot of working out. I use quite lot of fresh herbs and dip and delve into the spice box. Apart from that there are few secret ingredients. We try to have something different most nights though old favourites have a habit of cropping up. It’s an unusual month when I don’t treat myself to a cooked English breakfast or a decent steak.

The following meals were served between May and July when I had the camera handy.DSC_0057Linguine with mussels and green peppers. I forgot to add that we try to use our own grown ingredients. No we haven’t got a mussel bed but we do grow a lot of peppers. This was a while back and I can’t remember whether the sauce includes fresh cream or creme fraiche. I’m very tempted by it. May very well make it again in the next few days. I love all pasta dishes but seafood pasta dishes are a particular favourite.DSC_0063There we go. Mr Heinz originally marketed his tinned baked beans as a luxury item. These were intended for the sort of people who shopped in Harrods and Fortnum and Masons. I was shocked on finding out how much sugar he puts into them. These days I tend to go for the low sugar option. I can’t tell much difference in taste. W Somerset Maugham once wrote that “To eat well in England you should have breakfast three times a day.”  It’s as much a damning statement of the fare on offer in the early twentieth century as it’s a celebration of this unbalanced, unhealthy, but oh so tasty, contribution to the world of food. I like a cooked breakfast but try to limit it to no more than once a week, often once a fortnight.DSC_0065Salmon roe caviar on little bits of toasted bread with a decent cream cheese. By decent cream cheese I mean anything that isn’t and doesn’t resemble Philadelphia. It’s a wonderful State but a poor imitation of what proper cream cheese can be. Should be filed with Dairylea and McDonalds. Acceptable but only in emergency and when very hungry. And even then…only just.DSC_0066Simple sourdough pizzas. Take a bit of sourdough. Work it into a pizza shape. Add some tomato sauce (your own preferably) and cheese. This cheese looks like cheddar. It’s ok for pizza so long as you eat it straight away. If you allow it to cool it goes a bit plasticky in texture. I like anchovies. They usually find their way onto my pizzas.DSC_0071Desert Island food number one. Good bread (in this case home made sourdough loaf) with a selection of cheeses and some tomatoes. A grating of black pepper is all that is needed. This is food of the gods. Enjoyed at its best with tea served in cups and saucers and made in a pot. I don’t drink wine, in fact I don’t drink any alcohol. Tea does it for me! DSC_0077Desert Island Food part Two. Once again sourdough bread but this time with air dried Spanish ham and a strong soft French cheese. I cannot remember what type it was. I’d know it again if I saw it. Certainly if I tasted it.DSC_0081Roast beef and lettuce sandwich with a couple of dill pickles. Seem to remember that this was while I was watching a match in the European Football Championships. The bread is shop bought but it made a decent sandwich.DSC_0083Now there are only two of us at home I tend to cut the roasting joint in half and make a stew out of the remainder. Every country has its own dumplings recipes. A beef stew with dumplings is about as English as food gets. And about as tasty.DSC_0085Serve it with new potatoes and green beans. Happiness on a plate.DSC_0089Asparagus: the joy of an English spring. And a doping story that was quickly buried. Many were accused. They denied it. That’s alright then.DSC_0091Lunch the next day. Nothing heats up better than a stew. The dumplings lose something in texture but nothing in flavour. One of the delights of the modern world is the easy availability of asparagus. During my childhood this was kept for the extremely rich and for landowners. If you’ve got the right soil and plenty of space it isn’t difficult to grow. I’m happy to leave it to the farmers.DSC_0092There are a lot of variations on the English breakfast. The best is the simple combination of bacon and eggs with good bread and butter. It has to be butter.DSC_0093DSC_0097Inside the box from Bettys is a Yorkshire curd tart. There aren’t many places to get these. Do not pass one without buying. It is a real pleasure to eat. My grandma used to make these and they were wonderful when still just warm from the oven. I’ve never tried to make one myself which seems something I ought to put right. I never go to York or Harrogate without visiting Bettys and I never leave Bettys without a curd tart; unlike Dr Spooner. Be careful what you order!